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Edith Wharton's The Age of Innocence,
set in Manhattan in the "early 1870s," begins with Christine Nilsson
singing at the Academy of Music. The opera is Gounod's Faust.
The "world of fashion" has assembled in the boxes. In their own
eyes the embodiment of "New York," the fashionables are prisoners
of convention: Newland Archer arrives late because "it was 'not
the thing' to arrive early at the opera; and what was or was not
'the thing' played a part as important in Newland Archer's New
York as the inscrutable totem terrors that had ruled the destinies
of his forefathers thousands of years ago." Newland takes his
place among "all the carefully-brushed, white-waist coated, buttonhole-flowered
gentlemen who succeeded each other in the club box, exchanged
friendly greetings with him, and turned their opera glasses critically
on the circle of ladies who were the product of the system." That
"the German text of French operas sung by Swedish artists should
be translated into Italian for the clearer understanding of English-speaking
audiences" seems "as natural to Newland Archer as all the other
conventions on which his life was moulded: such as the duty of
using two silver-baked brushes with his monogram in blue enamel
to part his hair, and of never appearing in society without a
flower (preferably a gardenia) in his buttonhole." The box opposite
belongs to "old Mrs. Manson Mingott, whose monstrous obesity had
long since made it impossible for her to attend the Opera." It
contains a surprise: the Countess Olenska. This finding is assessed
by Laurence Lefferts; the "foremost authority of 'form' in New
York," he has devoted long hours to such questions as when to
wear a black tie with evening clothes and the matter of pumps
versus Oxfords for the feet. The countess is next appraised by
Sillerton Jackson, as great an expert on "family" as Leffert is
on form. Taking it all in, Newland elects to visit the box in
question and inspect the countess for himself. Meanwhile, little
Victor Capoul, as Faust, is "vainly trying, in a tight purple
velvet doublet and plumed cap, to look as pure and true as his
artless victim." Madame Nilsson, "in white cashmere slashed with
pale blue satin, a reticule dangling from a blue girdle, and large
yellow braids carefully disposed on each side of her muslin chemisette,"
listens "with downcast eyes to M. Capoul's impassioned wooing,"
and affects "a guileless incomprehension of his designs." Opera,
in short, is here depicted as an expensive backdrop to social
display and intrigue, a metaphor for artifice and pretension,
a pastime as vicarious and silly as the fashionables themselves. |
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This well-known vignette may be
the single most defining image of Gilded Age high culture. It
resonates with perceptions of a moneyed elite setting standards
of snobbish taste and decorumÑa constellation of ideas, including
"social control" and "sacralization" as exerted from on high,
embedded in such influential studies as Alan Trachtenberg's The
Incorporation of America: Culture and Society in the Gilded
Age (1982) and Lawrence Levine's Highbrow/Lowbrow: The
Emergence of Cultural Hierarchy in America (1988). And yet
Wharton no more purports to describe all of New York culture than
her bemused 1921 novel of New York society describes all of New
York. The same Academy of Music, as we know from the Evening
Post of July 26, 1859, contained a basement "lager beer cavern:"
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