| Book Review | The American Historical Review, 111.1

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| Book Review | The American Historical Review, 111.1 | The History Cooperative

Book Review

Canada and the United States

Jessamyn Neuhaus. Manly Meals and Mom's Home Cooking: Cookbooks and Gender in Modern America. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press. 2003. Pp. x, 336. $42.95.

With this fine repast, concocted from an imaginative array of ingredients and served with gusto, cookbooks join other forms of prescriptive literature as markers of hetero-gender identity that further function as tropes of national health and well-being. Early twentieth-century standbys like The Boston Cooking School (otherwise known as Fannie Farmer's) Cook Book (1896) assumed female domesticity but emphasized scientific cookery. From the 1933 "Cookery Book or Communism" slogan well into the Cold War, others insisted that "one way to express good citizenship is through food" (p. 224), especially home meals prepared by white middle-class wives and mothers. In the 1950s, a cookie jar in every kitchen—filled with delectables made, if not from scratch out of flour promoted by General Mills, then at least from a can opened by the housewife—expressed a "cooking mystique" (p. 238) as powerful as the feminine. A decade later, Peg Bracken's The I Hate to Cook Book (1960) perhaps reflected the harried lives of female wage-earners better than Irma Rombauer's much reissued The Joy of Cooking (1931), but food—and commodifed guides to its making—continued to construct the "appetites, food preferences, and cookery techniques" of men and women as different.

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