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Book Review
Pantaloons & Power: A Nineteenth-Century Dress Reform in the United States. By Gayle V. Fischer. (Kent: Kent State University Press, 2001. xii, 262 pp. Paper, $24.00, ISBN 0-87338-682-5.)
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In 1971 the young women of Sierra Junior High School in Riverside, California, challenged the campus dress code. Arriving panted rather than skirted, they staged a sit-in outside the administration building and refused to attend classes until female students were permitted to wear pants to school. By the end of the day, the principal had capitulated. We (for I was one of those protesters) had successfully challenged men's exclusive right to wear pants. Reading Gayle V. Fischer's new book, Pantaloons & Power, reminded me of this long-forgotten episode and helped me better understand the sources and variety of dress reform impulses in nineteenth-century America. |
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Movements to promote bifurcated garments for women, commonly called pantaloons, Turkish trousers, or bloomers, were among the longest-lived nineteenth-century reform efforts. From the introduction of Robert Owen's plain dress for the New Harmony community in the 1820s to innovations for female bicycling costumes in the 1890s, advocates struggled to promote an alternative to contemporary feminine fashions. A focus on pantaloons for women ran through the agendas of a range of otherwise unrelated movements. Dress reform survived, not because it brought together common complaints or developed a comprehensive movement, but rather because pantaloons became the alternative female dress supported by a variety of health reformers, utopian and religious experiments, and women's rights advocates. |
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