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| Book Review | The American Historical Review, 109.5 | The History Cooperative
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December, 2004
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Book Review

Canada and the United States



Joel Denker. The World on a Plate: A Tour Through the History of America's Ethnic Cuisine. Boulder, Colo.: Westview. 2003. Pp. ix, 196. $24.00.

This book by Joel Denker offers readers a breezy read on the topic of immigrant foodways and their wide diffusion onto the plates, and into the consciousness, of Americans who otherwise had no real contact with or knowledge of ethnic practices. For example, most American consumers of yogurt probably have little idea of the historic process by which this foodstuff of the Middle East ended up on their grocery shelves. Denker traces the journeys of a wide array of foods, making clear by means of a range of individual food stories that Americans of many backgrounds owe a debt to the immigrants who brought these foods to their new home. 1
      Organized along a group by group structure, the book treats with delight how various ethnic cuisines have made their way into America and American life. For each group—and the author includes Italians, Arabs, Greeks, Jews, Chinese, South Asians (Indians and Pakistanis) and, finally, Latin Americans—Denker shows how foods, once the ordinary stuff of immigrant communities and known only to insiders, entered into the larger consciousness and palates of Americans. Each chapter tells the story of a particular set of foods authentic to an immigrant group and highlights the activities of ambitious entrepreneurs who figured out a variety of ways to make money by marketing "insider" foods to "outsiders." . . .

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